Sometimes called coated canvas, coated cotton, plasticated cotton or oilcloth, this type of fabric requires a few changes to how you work with it compared to standard fabric. For a start it can’t be ironed from the top (plastic) side and you can’t use pins. Here I have outlined how to adapt particular steps from my “Little Zipped Pouches” pattern for use with coated fabric.
To begin with you need to use a leather needle for stitching the coated fabric. Don’t forget to change to a normal needle when stitching the fabric lining.
Step 4: Draw around paper pattern pieces on the wrong side of the coated fabric, rather than pinning the pattern. You can iron on a medium heat onto the wrong side of the coated fabric (never touch the right side with the iron, even on a very low heat), so iron on the fusible interfacing to the back of the fabric, as pictured.
Step 6: (If adding wrist strap) As you won’t be able to pin & iron the strap edges to meet in the centre, iron the strap on the wrong side for a few seconds then, while the fabric is still warm & soft, fold over and press the edge flat with your fingers. As the fabric cools it should still keep the folded edge. Fold the strap again along the centre & use small bulldog clips (found at stationery suppliers) to keep in place before stitching along the edge.
Step 10: Use the bulldog clips to keep the zip tape in place before stitching.
Step 17: (for pleated version of the pouch) Iron pleats towards the centre on the back of the fabric & use clips to keep the pleats in place before stitching them flat.
Step 20: Instead of pinning the front & back panels together, keep in place with bulldog clips.
After stitching around the outside edge it helps to trim the seam allowance at the base & around the corners to halfway up the sides to about 3mm. As the coated fabric is stiffer than standard fabric this will make nicer corners on the pouch when it is turned out.
After cutting notches in the side seams at “F” & “G”, you won’t be able to pin the side seams flat above and below the notch (as instructed in the original instructions). Instead you can either flatten the seam as much as possible with your thumb and fingers or use a small strip of thin double-sided tape to hold down the seam allowances.
Step 26: You will not be able to handstitch the lining to the coated fabric as it is too thick to stitch through. Instead, handstitch the lining to the line of stitching that you did in step 7. Just insert your needle around the machine stitches then back into the lining fabric.
I have also made my “Mini Sunray Convertible Clutch” in a coated canvas. For this you can use much the same techniques as above.